Do you dress your husband/partner?

Sally Inkster

Sally Inkster

Well read on…

There must be a statistic somewhere that shows how many females dress their partners – but I guess a lot don’t admit too it. Whether this is because they’re lazy or is it because they just don’t have a clue or they’re just used to their mother dressing them is anyones guess but if you do have the job of dressing the men in your life, hopefully the following will help you in 2 ways

1. You will have a bit more knowledge of what is good to buy for them
2. They may even read this themselves and go out shopping?

Mmm I hear you saying – but anythings worth trying!
Men have a problem because although male figure shapes fall into roughly the same shapes as Females, male ‘off the peg’ clothes do not. Male clothes are made for only 3 figures, angular (inverted triangle equivalent), straight (self explanatory), or Elipse ( hourglass equivalent). Finding a males shape isn’t that straightforward either and their cooperation is not always forthcoming and so I’m going to give you the easy version (I hope)

Face your partners back – now you can do this with him knowing or without his knowing!
The first task is to find out whether his shoulders are too wide for his hips. Unlike females hips and shoulders which are meant to be equivalent a mans shoulders are meant to be broader but not too broad. Take a literal or imaginary soft plumb line ( I use a pound coin on some string ) and hang it not from his shoulder but from his armpit – if it falls so that it is in line with his hip, then he’s a straight, if his hips are outside the plumb line then he is a pear shape (curved) and if the hips are inside the plumb line then he’s angular (inverted triangle). But none of the male labels in store give you this information on the clothes so this is a simple guide.

FOR WIDE SHOULDERS (or skinny legs)

* Avoid too much padding
* Avoid lapels that are too narrow or too wide
* Wear raglan sleeves as the line of the sleeve will detract the eye away from the wide shoulder
* Wear V necks
* Wear fine knit jumpers as these reduce the visual bulk
* Wear suit jackets with pocket flaps
* Wear trousers that add to the hip area by pleats that face outwards
* Wear trousers with pockets that can be seen
* Wear trousers with weighty fabric

FOR SMALL SHOULDERS ( or larger lower half)

* Suit shoulders should be padded ‘off the peg’ suits may need extra padding
* Added detail should be at the shoulder area – lifting and squaring the shoulders off
* Think about discreet padding at the shoulders in casual jumpers and jackets
* Wear lapels that point upward and outwards
* Wear sweaters with set in sleeves slightly wider that shoulders
* Horizontal stripes across chest and shoulders
* Darker trousers than jacket or sweater

To find his LEG LENGTH

* Full height measurement
* Inside leg measurement
* Take one from the other and you have his body length usually then obvious whether your man has short legs or long legs!

FOR SHORT LEGS
You should choose

* All one colour
* Layered tops
* Flat topped shoes
* Shoe colour/trouser match
* Vertical stripes

You should avoid

* Contrasting colours
* Too long tops
* White trainers with jeans – any major colour change!
* Three quarter length jackets

Long legged men get away with much more! But basically just swop the above too around.

Other Challenges!
Adjusting collar widths can disguise a short neck and make it appear longer by wearing

* Low fitted collars
* Open neck sweaters
* V neck sweaters

You should avoid

* Crew and turtleneck sweaters

A long neck can be made to look shorter by wearing

* High fitted Collars
* Crew and turtlenecks

You should avoid

* Open-neck
* V neck unless the space is filled with another sweater or scarf

If he has a prominent bottom

* Wear jackets with a single centre vent
* Ensure the vent lies flat

If he has a flat bottom

* Wear double vented jackets
* Wear nipped in waist
* Well fitted trousers
* For casual wear – corduroy looks better than jeans, as the fabric is textured and gives the illusion of body.

If he is Top Heavy
You should choose

* Bootleg trousers
* Long scarves
* Fitted 2 button jackets
* 1 button knee length coats
* Small pattern shirt and t-shirt

You should avoid

* Short sleeved shirts
* Tapered trousers
* Football shirt
* Double breasted jackets
* Lighter top than bottoms

Heavy Men

* Look better in medium to dark clothes
* Should choose suits as they are more slimming than separate jackets or trousers
* If separates are wanted, keep colour intensity of jacket and trousers close
* Make sure shirt collars are big enough and buttons don’t pull

You should avoid

* Waistcoats as can emphasis a weight problem around the waist
* Double – breasted jackets as they can make you look short-legged and give extra bulk across you front
* Side vents
* Turn-ups if under six foot tall

THIN MEN
Should choose

* Hipster trousers
* Logos
* Short sleeved shirts
* Skinny jeans
* Suit jackets

Should avoid

* Waisted trousers
* Contrasting colours
* Chunky sweaters
* Horizontal stripes
* Fat ties

SHORT MEN
Should choose

* Suits as these will make them look taller
* If separates wanted – keep colour intensity close and take some of the trouser colour up to the top half of the body
* Shirt collars should fit and have short points
* Make sure all sleeves and trousers are a good fit
* Ties should end at the belt buckle
* Keep accessories in proportion to your bone size

Should avoid

* Double-breasted suits they will make your legs look small and out of proportion
* Turn-ups as they will make your legs look shorter

TALL MEN
Should choose

* You have the feedom to choose many different colours and styles
* Wear colours to suit the occasion
* Jackets and blazers look best on a tall man
* Single or double-breasted jackets look good

Men with a BEER BELLY
Should choose

* Loose t-shirts
* Low waisted jeans
* Darker t-shirts under light top
* Scarves
* Continuous colour

Should avoid

* Contrasting colours
* Too long tops
* Too short tops
* White trainers with jeans
* Three quarter length jackets

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